Introducing AmyScrapSpot!

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Fabric Depot made a new friend and we are very excited to introduce you! AmyScrapSpot is a sewist and a blogger with a story like many of yours. She’s figuring out the balance between love of fabric and real life stuff like family and a fulltime job! Despite being so busy, Amy found the time to develop a Remote Caddy using fabric from Fabric Depot. Keep reading to make your own!


 

Hey Everyone!

I’m Amy from AmyScrapSpot! I am super excited to share my very first tutorial with you for Fabric Depot! When they asked me to do something a bit different I was eager for the challenge and jumped right in! Without further ado, I bring you my Remote Caddy Tutorial!

finished caddy

To make this remote caddy you need about 4 fat quarters (not including the straps, described below, in detail). You will want to find colors that coordinate with each other and also with the room that you plan to use it in.

For the Straps it is easiest to use 2 separate continuous pieces that are the length of the measurement that you take below. (or you can piece parts together from your fat quarters). I took many pictures of this process and will do my very best to show you precise steps in creating your very own caddy! 

Please contact me if you have any questions or problems, at all! I will be very happy to help! =) 

I began by measuring the spot that I wanted it to reach on our bedroom headboard- ALL the way to where I wanted it to attach on the back of the headboard.(or on the wall, if that is what works for you- you won’t see it behind the bed, anyway!)

I wanted it to be within reach of us both but not too far down and in the way.

We attached a small hook on the back-toward the top- of our headboard. My own measurement was about 32".

Then I needed to decide which fabrics I wanted to use on each pocket. I was thrilled when Fabric Depot sent me these awesome fat quarters to work with, Thanks so much!

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MAIN BODY

2 Pocket Fronts - Cut at 10.5" x 7.5" Each

(One for Front of Main Body, one for Back or Wall Side of Main Body when finished)

2 Lining - Cut at 10.5" x 7.5" Each

(Main Body Lining, one for Front & Back)

2 Pieces of Heat N' Bond Lite (cut same as above)

Attach Heat N' Bond Lite Piece to the wrong side of either *FRONT* Piece AND Either

*BACK* Piece

 

~~Attachment tip! ~~

On my ironing board, I place the Heat N' Bond piece (sticky side up) and then the fabric on top, facing up.

Make sure none of the Heat N' Bond is going to touch your iron - then iron into place.

Gently peel paper off fabric - (iron again if it isn't sticking properly).

 

Place each set right sides together (RST) and sew the top and the sides. I started at the bottom corner, traveled up one side, across the top, and down the other side. It made it easy to sew the 3 sides continuously while leaving the bottom open.

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Throughout whole project clip the corners to remove excess bulk before flipping right side out!

 

Turn right side out, using a tool (chop stick, or knitting needle, etc.) and push out and crisp your corners, as much as possible.

 

Use the same tool to push your seam outward (a little at a time) and clip or pin into place as you go. This helps to "set" the seam into place so when you iron it, gluing the layers together, your pocket looks square. This same practice is also used when making each set below.

 

If you don't clip or pin into place your square will look uneven and wonky as your fabric could shift before adhering.. :(

 

Set aside.

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TALL POCKET

1 Pocket Front - Cut at 5.5" x 4.5"

1 Pocket Lining - Cut at 5.5" x 4.5"

1 Piece of Heat N' Bond Lite *cut same as above*

Attach Heat N' Bond to one of the pieces above on the wrong side of the fabric.

 

Place pieces RST and sew the same way as the Main Body, leaving the bottom open. Don’t forget to clip those corners before flipping! I'm sorry to repeat myself, but I feel like a good reminder can go a long way!

 

I had more than my share of seam ripping while creating this fun project! I couldn't remember my own reminders! Lol

 

SHORT POCKET

1 Pocket Front - Cut at 5.5" x 3"

1 Pocket Lining - Cut at 5.5" x 3"

1 Piece of Heat N' Bond Lite *cut same as above*

Attach Heat N' Bond to one of the pieces above on the wrong side of the fabric.

Place pieces RST and sew the same way as the Main Body & Medium Pocket, leaving the bottom open.

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WIDE POCKET

1 Fabric Strip 10.5" x 5.5"

1 Piece of Heat N' Bond Lite 10.5" x 2"

This strip is folded in half lengthwise. Before applying the Heat N' Bond, use your Wonder Clips to hold the folded edge while you iron a crisp crease lengthwise down the center of the strip. Remove the clips as you iron.

 

Allow a moment to cool, then open your fabric. Place Heat N' Bond on one half, against the fold. Refold, creating a fabric sandwich. Use clips to secure in place for pressing. Iron flat,  removing clips as you go. Watch the pressure on your iron, too much could cause your fold to warp a little.

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Now all of our components are sewn into their pairs! There should be 5 pairs sewn together, flipped right side out, and ironed flat. Two Main Body’s, one Tall Pocket, one Short Pocket, and one Wide Pocket.

 

Sew your Small Pocket and Medium Pocket, side by side, to each other (do not overlap pockets) using a fun stitch that Zig-Zags back and forth. This attaches the pockets at middle to keep them lined up during assembly. You may need to test on scraps to make sure your stitch will go into both pockets, adjusting stitch length and width as needed.

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Place the Front of Main Body, lining-side up on your work surface. Center your Wide Pocket on top with lining-side up, align raw edges at bottom. Your pocket should hang over on each side edge, this will become the ease in our pocket.

 

Center your two attached Pockets (Tall & Short), lining side up, on this stack keeping raw edges aligned at bottom. It’s starting to get thick so use clips to hold everything in place along the bottom edge! *Make sure your pockets are straight and nothing has shifted!*

The pocket layers will hang over on both sides, leaving ease!

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Stitch ONLY The bottom edge. Make sure everything seems correct by quickly flipping your pockets to the front to make sure all layers were sewn through, the alignment stayed in place, and the correct fabric layers ended up on the exterior. Trust me. Don’t skip that part. So much seam ripping… 

Then trim the seam allowance, flip pockets to the Front for real, and iron that bottom seam like your life depends on it. Seriously, press this bottom edge firmly and use clips (the more the better!) to set that seam as flat as possible!

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Now, with the Main Body Front and partially attached pockets right sides up, we revisit the fun stitch used to partner the Tall and Short Pockets. Line up your machine with the previous zig-zag (from the middle of the small pockets) and stitch through all layers from the bottom edge to the top of the Pocket. This attaches the Wide Pocket layer and Tall/Short Pocket layer on to the Main Body Front layer. This stitch line divides the Wide Pocket into 2 pockets and creates the same division between the Tall and Short Pockets.

 

Use your Wonder Clips again to line up the Tall/Short Pocket layer along the sides of the Main Body. The pockets shouldn't rest completely flat, ease them in towards the center if needed to add extra ease.

 

Now, wrap the Wide Pocket side edges around to the back of the Main Body Front, allowing some ease. Use clips to keep layers in place, then stitch sides and bottom close to the edge.

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Place Main Body Back layer lining side up on your work surface. Fold the bottom raw edge up and press into place. Place Main Body Front lined up on top of the Main Body Back layer, right side up. Linings should match linings, and pockets should be on the outside at this point. Wonder Clip the layers together.

 

Stitch from the Top Corner, down the side, across the bottom and up the other side. The Main Body of your Caddy is done, let’s decorate!

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Grab some Ric-Rac or fun trim from your stash to accent your fabrics. Fold the end under so it looks pretty and clean finished, trim any raw edges that stick out. Pin this to the top corner of your ALMOST FINISHED Caddy! Line up your trim along the side, being sure not to stretch it! Feel free to pin generously for accuracy. I used the trim to cover my previous stitches a little and with the right coordinated thread, your Rick-Rack can completely hide them!

 

At the corners fold it -either behind or over top- so it lines up with itself and pin into place. =D


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Congratulations! Your caddy is ALMOST done!! Yay!!

Now onto those Straps!!

 

What was that measurement that you took at the very beginning (where you want it to hang on your headboard)?

You need to cut two straps that length x 3.5”, so I cut two 32” x 3.5” rectangles.

Fold each in half with RST, sew along one end and the length of the strap stopping 2” from the second end.

Use your pokey tool again, as you did above and turn both straps right side out.

I tried a few ways to see what worked easiest; I started at the closed end, placed my tool there and pushed the fabric onto it, towards the opening.

 

Once you have it all bunched on the tool, grab the newly visible end, and use the tool to push your seams outward as you pull the right side out. Iron each strap flat, using Pins or Wonder Clips to avoid slippage.

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Once they are nice and flat lay your caddy on a big flat surface. You can either attach one central strap or have two “Picture Fram” straps. If you prefer two, as I did; you’ll want them to meet about 12” above the caddy. Use your cutting mat to line this up and create the angle you want.

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While my straps were laid out at the angle I liked, I wrapped one strap around the other starting at their meeting point. I left gaps between each wrap and Wonder Clipped it well as I went.

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Keeping your straps laid flat at the angle you chose, insert them between the Main Body Front and Back layers. It’ll look like you’re tucking them into the main pocket. To keep this angle, I had to fold my strap while it was in between these layers because it bumped into the side seam. Press this fold into place and return the straps to their final position between the Front and Back layers. I used my pokey tool to push the strap as close into the corner as possible. Then sew the strap into place using a right angled triangle. Try to capture the entire angled portion of the strap in your stitched triangle – as shown.

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I added a bit of top stitching to the straps to dress them up and reinforce them a bit, nothing too tricky!

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The FINAL step is to add a buttonhole or two to the end of your strap! I put my first buttonhole about an inch from the clean finished end of the strap. Adding a second buttonhole is useful if you want to be able to adjust where it sits on the headboard at any point, and you can choose the distance between. I only made one on mine.

Add a nail or small hook to the area on the back of your headboard or wall. Adjust the hook so the buttonhole will stay in place. If using a nail, tip it down a bit so the strap can’t slip off.

 

Now, you have completed your very own hanging remote caddy!

 

Thank you so much for joining Fabric Depot and I for the journey!

 

I hope you enjoyed making your own Remote Caddy and maybe even learned a new trick or two along the way!

I would LOVE to see yours! If you'd like  to show me, click my blog link above and contact me or send it to AmyScrapSpot@gmail.com

Have a fantastic week and enjoy your remote caddy!

-- 

AmyScrapSpot

Amy Gerlich

https://AmyScrapSpot.blogspot.com


 

Thanks for cohosting this blog party, Amy! We hope your caddy turned out awesome too! Share your makes with us on InstagramFacebook, Pinterest, and Twitter using #fabricdepot & #inspirationbytheyard! 

Click the links or head to the Portland store to check out our selection of supplies, take a class, and get some #inspirationbytheyard! Don’t forget to ask questions & let us know how your sewing is going in the comment box below!

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